Surfsand History

A Geological Marvel

Haystack Rock is an iconic basalt sea stack on the Oregon Coast, created around 15 million years ago from volcanic lava that flowed from Eastern Oregon along the Columbia River. The rock stands 235 feet tall, making it one of the largest monoliths globally. Over the years, visitors have posed risks by climbing the rock, leading to erosion and damage to marine life. As a result, on October 8, 1968, a part of Haystack Rock was detonated using dynamite by the Federal Bureau of Sport and Fisheries and Wildlife. This was done to discourage climbing and to protect the delicate marine life. This distinctive landmark has been featured in various novels, television programs, and movies such as The Goonies and Kindergarten Cop. In 1976, Haystack Rock was designated as a National Wildlife Refuge and as a protected Marine Garden in 1990. The stewards of the rock are the Haystack Rock Awareness Program and Friends of Haystack Rock.

An Unlikely Highway

Before Oregon Coast Highway 101 was built, the beach was the only way to travel along this stretch of the coast in Cannon Beach. In 1910, a small road was blasted out of the massive rock to facilitate travel. Pioneers and their stagecoaches had to wait for low tide and then “hug” the edge of the rocks to get around the point without getting swept away by the tide attributing to the name, “Hug Point,” a 43-acre state park located a stone’s throw from Surfsand Resort. Hug Point State Park boasts an impressive seasonal waterfall and during low tide, signs of the original roadbed are visible in the carved-out rock.

USS Shark Shipwrecked

The USS Shark was a schooner that shipwrecked on September 10, 1846, while attempting to cross the treacherous Columbia River Bar. The schooner was shipwreck and washed ashore was several cannons in the areas that was called Elk Creek, and present-day Arch Cape Creek. There were several sighting of the cannons:

1863: First Cannon Sighting

In December 1863, mail carrier John Hobson reported seeing a cannon at present-day Arch Cape Creek. Soon after, this cannon became lost when tides buried it in sand.

1898: First Cannon Found

George Luce, a mail carrier spotted a cannon near the mouth of Austin Creek, with the help of friends, the cannon was pulled out of the sand, after which time it stood in front of the Austin House Post Office in Arch Cape for several years.

2008: Two More Cannons Found

Two more cannons from the USS Shark were found by a beach walker, Mirando Petrone at Arch Cape, and another beach visitor soon found the third cannon nearby.

2014: Restoration Completed

The two cannons were sent to Texas A & M University to undergo an extensive conservation process. After a painstaking effort to conserve the artifacts, they were returned in 2014. The original cannon and the capstan are preserved at the Cannon Beach History Center & Museum and the other two cannons are on display at the Columbia River Maritime Museum.

A Tale Behind The Name

The history of how Cannon Beach got its name has a long tale that begins with the shipwreck of the USS Shark on September 10, 1846. While attempting to cross the Columbia Bar, a portion of the ship’s wreckage with three cannons washed ashore near the area called Elk Creek. Elk Creek was a beautiful place to visit and escape from bustle of the city. In 1910, Elk Creek changed its name to Ecola, after the stream running through town. However, Ecola's citizens were frustrated with their mail getting mixed up with mail from Eola, a town near Salem, Oregon. In 1922, the citizens of Elk Creek voted for a new and historical name, Cannon Beach. In 1955, the town of Cannon Beach voted to become the City of Cannon Beach, and March 6, 1957 marks its incorporation.

A Light Across Desolate Acreas Of Ocean

Tilly’s story began in 1878 when a solid basalt rock was selected as the unlikely location for a lighthouse off the coast of Tillamook Head. Danger began before work even began, an expert mason surveying the location was swept out to sea, never to be seen again. The construction took over 500 days, cost nearly $125,000, it was the most expensive lighthouse built on the West Coast.

Tilly was officially lit on January 21, 1881. For decades, Tilly and her keepers withstood the ravages of the sea, but October 1934 brought the worst storm on record, besieging the entire Pacific Northwest for four days. Tilly’s lantern room and Fresnel lens were smashed by boulders propelled by the storm. It was never replaced. Tilly was decommissioned in 1957. Though battered and bruised, she still stands today.

On September 1, 1957, Keeper Oswald Allik turned off the light for good and made one final entry in the logbook.

“Farewell, Tillamook Rock Light Station. An era has ended. With this final entry, and not without sentiment, I return thee to the elements. You, one of the most notorious and yet fascinating of the sea-swept sentinels in the world; long the friend of the tempest-tossed mariner. Through howling gale, thick fog and driving rain your beacon has been a star of hope and your foghorn a voice of encouragement. May the elements of nature be kind to you. For 77 years you have beamed your light across desolate acres of ocean. Keepers have come and gone; men lived and died; but you were faithful to the end. May your sunset years be good years. Your purpose is now only a symbol, but the lives you have saved and the service you have rendered are worthy of the highest respect. A protector of life and property to all, may old-timers, newcomers and travelers along the way pause from the shore in memory of your humanitarian role.”

Full entry on display at the Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria, and in the Surfsand Resort’s book “Best of Cannon Beach” available in guestrooms.

Majesty Of Oregon’s Coastline

Oregon Governor Oswald West served as Oregon's fourteenth governor, between 1911 and 1915. Governor West’s most famous achievement began as part of his 1913 biennial message to the legislature where he argued that the ocean beach, from north to south, should be declared a public highway. Fearful of developers spoiling the pristine Oregon Coast, he engineered the first major protection of public access to the state's beaches, by convincing the legislature to declare all Oregon tidelands, the wet sand portion of the beach to be a state highway from the Columbia River to the California border, from the low tide line to the high tide line. This legislation ensured that everyone had direct access to Oregon’s 363 miles of beaches.

A Fight For Beaches

In 1967, a Portland real estate developer Bill Hay built the Surfsand property. Hay used a loophole in the 1913 legislation created by Governor Oswald West, which only protected tidelands, the wet sand portion of the beach, as a public highway. Hay tried to restrict public access to a stretch of dry sand in front of his property by declaring it a “private beach.” This led to complaints to the Oregon Highway Department. In response, Governor Tom McCall stepped in upon discovering limited public access to the beach. Consequently, he signed the Beach Bill, which guaranteed that the public had access to the 363 miles of the Oregon Coast's beaches. While signing the bill, McCall quoted Governor West, stating, “No local selfish interest should be allowed, through politics or otherwise, to destroy or even impair this great birthright of our people.”

Origin Of The Famous Cannon Beach Sandcastle Contest

In 1964, an earthquake in Alaska caused a destructive tsunami that significantly impacted the Oregon Coast. In Cannon Beach, downtown was flooded, and washed out the Elk Creek Bridge, and residents were isolated until a new bridge could be built. That spring, to keep locals entertained and boost morale, local families gathered for a Sandcastle Contest to entertain their children and attract visitors. The Cannon Beach Sandcastle Contest became one of the largest sandcastle contests on the West Coast. In 2014, the Cannon Beach Sandcastle Contest was recognized as an Oregon Heritage Tradition by the Oregon Parks & Recreation Department, making it one of just 26 events statewide to achieve such a designation. An Oregon Heritage Tradition is an event with broad public appeal, with at least 50 years of continuous operation, contributing to the state's identity. The Cannon Beach Sandcastle Contest takes place in June.

Downtown Cannon Beach

Downtown Cannon Beach is an idyllic town located on the Oregon Coast. It is full of charm, with a myriad of boutique shops offering unique finds. Take time to browse independent bookstores for the latest beach reads or discover local literary talents. Cannon Beach is also home to numerous art galleries displaying the work of talented local artists and makers. For history enthusiasts, the Cannon Beach History Center & Museum is a must-visit destination to explore the town's fascinating history and the stories that have shaped it.

Iconic Tufted Puffins

Haystack Rock is home to the largest breeding colony of Tufted Puffins in Oregon. These birds display impressive long, pale yellow head plumes, red-rimmed eyes, and an immense red bill offset by a bright white face. In April, the puffins arrive at Haystack Rock to breed. These birds mate for life and return to the same burrow to reunite with their partner to produce a single egg. Both males and females take turns to incubate the egg for about six weeks. After hatching, the puffling is fed with small fish by both parents for another six weeks. Eventually, the parents leave their puffling to their fate and fly out to sea to complete their cycle. The annual return of these iconic sea birds is one of the most anticipated traditions and is symbolic of the arrival of spring in Cannon Beach.

Martin North – Elevating Hospitality In Cannon Beach

In 1979, Steve and Janice (Jan) Kay Martin acquired the Surfsand Motel, followed by the Wayfarer Restaurant & Lounge in 1983. Through a transformative expansion, they turned it into the Surfsand Resort, redefining the oceanfront lodging experience. Over decades, the Martins, joined by their daughter Stephanie and her husband Ryan Snyder, developed several hotels and restaurants and significantly enhanced hospitality and community engagement in Cannon Beach. Today, the Snyders own and operate Martin North, a hospitality company preserving and advancing the family legacy on the Oregon Coast.

Surfsand Resort & Vesta Hospitality – A New Horizon In Hospitality

Richard Takach, Jr., (Rick) and his partners acquired Surfsand Resort and Wayfarer Restaurant & Lounge in July 2022. A respected hotelier and Chairman & CEO of Vesta Hospitality in Vancouver, Washington, Rick’s vision is to create authentic and memorable hospitality experiences while honoring the historical significance of the resort and community. Surfsand Resort blends incredible views with thoughtfully designed guestrooms where modern comforts, timeless luxury, and unique amenities converge. The result is an unforgettable experience. Surfsand Resort is more than a destination; it is the best of Cannon Beach.